Above the deck

This week we’re driving towards completion of big exterior pieces. First up is the windshield, which after much fussy fairing work is looking pretty good. Time was well spent making accurate patterns for the Tap Plastics people to cut the smoked acrylic windows.

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They are rebated in the frames so as to come out flush-mounted. We’ll try just bonding them in, but little blots could be added if needed later. The panes are stored now, awaiting the boat’s final painting.

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Next up is the hard dodger roof which is in cardboard mockup now. Trying to find the right balance of minimal windage, being able to see over it standing at the tiller, not whacking one’s head going in/out of the cabin companionway, and not being an ugly blob. Oh, and not blocking the cabin top winches!

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That last photo also shows the new stern tower leg stubs getting faired in before the remove-able legs can be sleeved on. Here are the steps so far:

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PVC pipe at the center for a wiring conduit and foam core strips shaped to give it all some faux-wing contour. The two stubs were built whole, but I should have done one 30″ and cut it in half. Then we transfered a half-model of the shape and made a plug mold for the 48″ legs. I was pretty darned happy with this first molding project, but…

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In the photo you can see dimples in the panel; the vacuum was strong enough to collapse some unsupported wood in the mold. Argh – good learning that a plug must be SOLID.

So the mold got repaired and four leg-halves made just fine without bagging.

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Now we’ll join the two sides around some internal rib spacers.

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These parts are set aside awaiting 24″ threaded rods that will get embedded in the legs, pass through the stubs and be bolted from inside the aft cabin.

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Ok, the box from McMaster Carr just arrived, so those long bolts can go in this afternoon. Then it’s time to design the top part of the tower for all the various gear.

It’s dark out there!

Captain Rick Holway is making sure the Carters have enough sailing miles before launching the new boat. He’s a veteran of the singlehanded sailing society’s solo Long Pacific races, so I pay close attention to his coaching. We picked a no-moon phase for an overnight sail in the gulf of the Farrallones last night.

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Outbound at dusk we were among 50+ salmon boats – the prospect of navigating thru that fleet then the northbound shipping lane in pitch black was daunting. So we headed east amongst the unmarked but rather boat-crushing rocks of the middle and north Farrallons.

Zoom in to the next photo and see the separate rocks in the distance – the chain extends for many miles north, with gaps plenty wide enough to pass between.

Throw in an inbound marine layer and by midnight the lack of stars and moon made the sea and sky one black blob. Made me think hard (between 1-4am) about being visually impaired and relying on autopilot vs windvane self steering and how they are mounted.
Ian Jones wrote in suggesting a wider stern tower for solar panels too.

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Good idea but it’s getting crowded up there and I don’t want the windage of panels that high – we’ll put those on top of the dodger and out on the beams. I need to widen the tower a bit and figure out how exactly to connect a tiller pilot that can control the new rudder’s trim tab, overriding the vane when the tiller pilot is connected. That’ll be for motoring and when steering to the compass heading is critical (as opposed to optimizing for wind angle with the vane system). And this 24 hour sail came just in time before building the tower legs Tuesday to make it taller and get that radar up well above the boom.

After going about 40 miles out, we got back to SE Farrallon in the early morning for Rick to spot four Albatross. Kind of a rare sighting there, and a nice little Puffin touched down near us to cap the day.

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Is it an arch or a tower?

Looks like we have a basic shape in mind for the structure over the stern of the boat, even if we don’t know exactly what to call it. The tasks for this tower are 1. Place the wind vane self steering gear well up in to the airflow behind the mainsail, 2. Mount the radar dome, 3.mount the GPS antenna, 4. Provide the rearmost anchor point for the cockpit shade Bimini, 5. Hold a backup VHF antenna in a pinch. It has to be wide enough for the tiller to swing a proper arc, but can also be a limiter for keeping the rudder from slamming broadside out of control. We also want it to be a sturdy handhold for climbing those steps to/from the stern.

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So this is a cardboard mockup with legs of about four feet tall, raked back for looks but also to center the top platform where it best suits the wind vane. The width has been determined by the (arbitrary) placement of the previously made stairs, and the general idea for this thing has been in mind since first watching the Volvo Ocean Race boats a few years ago, with the little towers on their sterns to mount all the comms gear.

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And no, the real tiller won’t look anything like this ugly grey PVC pipe – that just did the tiller angle measuring role.
One wrinkle in the construction is that this tower will have to be remove able for the road trucking. So I think we’ll build 18-24 inch permanent stubs up from the deck, then sleeve the rest of the legs down over the stubs, with threaded rod inside to bolt the tower in from the aft cabin. Also need to figure out an internal conduit to easily hide all the wires from tower-mounted gear.

If anyone has any warnings, words of advice on stern towers, or info on the minimum suitable height above deck we can run the radar dome, please comment.

100 holes

I wrote some time back about not wanting a couple hundred holes in the hull for little bolts to hold the trampoline net lashing eyes. But it was surprising how many hours – close to 100 – went in to affixing, fairing in, and hole-notching these 48 attachment points for the nets along each side. And of course the same thing was done on both sides of all four beams, with the float decks still to get theirs. This is one of those tasks that gets a single paragraph and small drawing in the plans but will have taken us a month in labor hours all-in. Yikes

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Here’s how it looked after drilling holes 3/4 thru from the top then finishing the hole upwards via the pilot hole extending thru the 1″ hollow hole saw. This hourglass shape then needed to be cut on the perpendicular using the multi-tool saw blade. The point is to get a Vee shape so the lashing lines can enter and exit the tubes at 45 degree angles. The lines will wrap around a skinny fiberglass rod placed inside the tube.

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We took a break today and visited the Master Mariner’s wooden boat show at the Corinthian in Tiburon. Colin, Jeanne and I each had different favorites. Origami raced against Yucca many times, and getting to meet Hank Easom aboard his lovely, fast war machine was great. We toured Eros, the 105′ schooner rebuilt by a marvelous couple through their 60’s and 70’s, and now touring the Western Hemisphere. Jeanne wants a light prism in our boat, just like big Eros’ cabins.

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Perhaps the best part was meeting the owners and seeing the pride they take in caretaking their ships made of wood.
And I think we’ll lift an idea right off the oldest active sailboat in California. The Spaulding Wooden Boat center has just relaunched Freda after an 8 year rebuild – those volunteers and staff took the entire boat apart to repair extensive damage/rot.

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The ah-ha was seeing the cabin top grab rails. I’ve been fretting over needing them but not wanting another bulky looking element on deck…

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Thinking the modern version of these things on Freda would be sleek carbon anchors every three feet and some nice grey no stretch dyneema line. Thinking about it, anyway.

But the best part of the day was watching Mrs. Carter take the helm as we went out sailing this afternoon, and show Colin and I what she had learned in her May/June ASA sailing course. The bay kicked up a steady 20kt wind, 5 big cargo ships, 4 ferries and a LOT of sailboat traffic to mess with the driver, but she plowed ahead like a champ. Practice makes perfect, so we’ll be bugging Dad to get the Catalina30 out more often :). Go Jeanne!

Back to work

Well, the contract work and family healthcare issues have consumed June’s workshop hours. Did manage to sneak in a few hours for fairing work here and there. And on Victoria Day in Canada, the intrepid Stephen Marcoe picked up our mast near Toronto and headed west. The stick is close now, about 250 miles away in northern Cal. Stay tuned for more on that. And for those who are smart enough to buy a finished boat, Stephen has a great one up on eBay right now. Check out the Contour 34 Trio listing.

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This is the finished product of the spinnaker pole mounting base. The big aluminum tangs extend four inches in to the bow with a bunch of reinforcement webs in there. I think I’ll make the pole out of carbon instead of the original aluminum plans.

The daggerboard is finally done and it was a great way to really learn proper longboard fairing. That exercise should make the below-the-waterline hull fairing go much better. Board photos will come after some primer is applied this weekend. We’re quite happy with the final shaping.

It’s good to be back at the boat work. Onward and upward towards the launch.

Shiny bits

Today was a trip to the east bay to pick up the self-steering vane from ScanMar in Richmond. The wind vane component will get mounted atop a new arch at the back of the boat, and the white cables in the photo here are what connect the pendulum vane to a trim tab on the back of the rudder. I didn’t photo enough of the air vane at the top to get a complete picture, but this is just the start of this story.

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In the second photo, see the stainless rod that serves as the hinge pin for the trim tab. On this display model, everything is external and not particularly hydro-dynamic high performance. So the next stop today was a visit to the design studio of Jim Antrim with our rudder in hand. He will draw up a recommendation for cutting the rudder to make part of the trailing edge the trim tab. Rick Holway will be glad to know that Jim designed a similar modification to the big local tri Defiance’s rudder; it was exciting to have him pull up those build plans on his computer today. That project was tricky as the control rods had to run up through the rudder post (because it’s under-the-boat rudder) Ours won’t be that intricate because it’s external, but we still have considerable work to build internal bearings and a carbon hinge running from top to bottom. Lots more to come on this topic over the next month.

And here was a very satisfying spend at the Oakland boat show. With the myriad choices out there for sailing hardware, I decided to (1) go with stainless steel to match our shiny Anderson winches and (2) buy local. The Garhauer company in Upland, CA were original suppliers to Corsair, and F27 Origami still has most of her 23yr old Garhauer gear working well. This is a family business doing their own manufacturing, and I spent an hour in their boat show booth picking out this loot:

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This is most of the sail handling gear, plus the anchor roller and the solid stainless steel forestay chainplate. The rest will come from Colligo, in conjunction with all the synthetic standing rigging (no wires).
It’s fun to see how big this stuff is compared to our prior boats. The jib cars are the size of decent hamburgers! And that’s a big size 52 winch in the photo.

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Almost ready to show you final photos of the daggerboard and hull-side net lashings, but there’s still just a bit more filling and sanding to do. Apparently the entire Memorial Day weekend wasn’t enough :)

Breaking radio silence

005 is back on the airwaves tonight after a busy month outside the boat shop. Some family health issues and the builder’s pursuit of the legal tender cut the boat hours way back. But now Mom’s leg is healing and the contract work with a friend’s company is sorted out. We need encouraging thoughts beamed towards Ontario, Canada on Tuesday morning as Stephen Marcoe pulls a Formula 30 cat on its trailer to the shop where our mast sits waiting near Toronto. Hoping to get two masts on the trailer that’s only expecting one, and get that long drive west started right away. It’s been two years of snafus in getting this 50′ stick “out of the mud” and I’m very anxious to show you photographic proof it’s been matched up to its boat in California! Stay tuned.

The daggerboard glassing and fairing has been attacked in little windows between trips to the hospital, etc. The whole project isn’t taking too many hours (maybe 30 ish?) but it’s going to be two months on the calendar this spring. One side is all ready for paint:

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And the other got a thick layer of fairing compound just after this photo. Finished board seems to be about 100 lbs. I can JUST flip it over and move it around the shop alone.

Another small steps project done is the mounting base for the bow sprit pole. Again, we take a perfectly nice boat hull and put two nasty cuts right out front.

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Before those cuts comes the molding-on of glass to make this bow cap. Mold release helped the unit pop right off when dried.

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Here are the three fabricated parts ready to install…

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And with the slices in the cap, a potential Halloween costume.

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The cap got cemented on and the tangs glassed inside the bow forward chamber. Will get some shots during fairing, but this should be a great anchor point for the screacher/Drifter.

Today’s work (and recent past) is fairing in the net lashing tubes along the hull. Andy Miller warned this is tricky, and I hope these come out much better than the metal eye straps screwed in everywhere on older boats.
We’ll get photos when it all looks decent.

And wait till you see all the boat jewels acquired at the Garhauer booth inside the Oakland boat show. Spent an hour in there and came out with the entire package of sailing hardware. Two grand in stainless steel, strong and nicely paired with the 5 big Anderson winches awaiting their mounts. Gotta fair and paint prep first!

Rinse and repeat

After the task of laminating all the net lashing tubes shown on the prior posting, it was on to the same for the starboard side. We did the primary work in one long day; three separate vac bag applications needing a couple hours each, plus all the materials prep time in between, all took about ten hours. Overall, these hull-mounted net attachments are looking like a solid 40 hour week of work. Drilling and installing a few hundred screws and eye straps would have been much quicker, but I have no interest in all that steel / rust and potential for little leaks all around the boat.

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A coat of primer goes on the rudder today while we look for wax or vinyl sheets to use as a release agent around the rudder to start building the cassette. (Any rudder builders out there have a suggestion?)

Go Brandon Belt – very good to have baseball back on the radio to fill the shop in the evenings.

Be a better bagger

It’s too bad they don’t teach this stuff in high school; no idea where one can get a hands-in education in vacuum lamination techniques. Things are being done safely here in the shop thanks to book and video study. But it’s all the little tricks not known that cause extra time and sometimes rework (go back a few posts to the vacuum pump saga :)
This week I think we’ve finally gotten in the groove, so in case anyone reading this stuff is just starting out, maybe these musings can help reduce some error in your trials?

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That’s the second of four stages vacuum laminating the net lashing tubes to the hull’s port side. Significant only because it’s the first success using a splitter to draw vacuum on two separate projects in one pump run. A small moral victory around here.

Stage 3 was the 15 foot section between the main beams. Here are the steps.
Took measurements between the temporary straps, and cut all materials to leave an inch and a half on both sides of the straps so epoxy wouldn’t migrate over the straps.
Built the bag down on the 8′ work table where it can be stretched snugly and the sticky goo tape applied, leaving the paper backing in place. Setting up the tape in this calm manner, before any epoxy is mixed, took me too long to realize!
Planned for add-on patches to make out-of-the-way zones in the bag for the pump fittings to sit. Leaving at least six inches between the air connection and any live epoxy work, linked by plenty of breather fabric, keeps the glue away from the pump’s tubes and fittings. (Learned after a nasty hour of scraping out glue-fouled bag fittings one night – these parts aren’t a quick Home Depot replacement).
After cutting fglass fabric to the six inch width for this job, the ‘bagging’ supplies were cut: peel ply at 7 inches because a bit of overlap makes it MUCH easier to remove later, release film at 6″ because any more would be waste, breather fluff at 5.5″ because when it goes all the way to the edges it invariably ends up adhered where you don’t want it, like on the hull!, and the bag film itself at 11″ – leaving 2-3″ past the edge of fiberglass is minimum. For this vertical work I needed the bag to help hold the wet materials in place before the pump turned on, so I cut it close and snug on purpose.
With materials all ready, it was time to apply the putty fillet around the pipe, and let it harden up a bit, but still pliable for the bag to press the fiberglass into the fillet and be able to take by-hand smoothing from the outside of the vac bag.

Here’s the bag in place, but folded down out of the way.

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Then the fglass was wetted out on the table and rolled up like little pillsbury crescent rolls (sans hot dogs, Mom) and walked over to the boat after sitting under warming lights for about 20 mins to get tacky (sticky). Here that is with peel ply to help hold it up. Note that it won’t adhere yet to the underside – gravity wins.

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The heat lamps are going because there is a putty fillet above and below the pipe, trying to time it so that is just hardening when the vacuum is applied. Too early and it will squish out; too late and there will be ugly lumps in your cream of wheat.
Next shot is after applying release film and breather fluff, some of which needed dabs of masking tape to hold in place. Bag was then brought up over the work taking care to tuck things in flatly.

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With this long, complicated bag, there were some air leaks but they were solved in a few minutes by pressing the tape all over again and adding a few inches of backup here and there. Having these separated tube attachment areas has helped quite a bit, compared to earlier work where I didn’t plan out the connection spots. Cut the bag to fit the work, and simply add a big ‘patch’ as needed.

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All in all, no drama today and it all came out with nice, uniform tubes that need only minor fairing work. In retrospect, I probably did this all backwards; someone could try small 2-3″ fiberglass strips next to the pipe straps first. Then remove the straps after the glass strips dry, and you could probably do the whole project in fewer bagging sessions. Just a thought.

And as Jeanne’s Mom always said when preparing the fruit for canning, “I found the one we’re looking for – the last one”…. Here’s beam number four escaping the oven. Don’t ask about the electric bill. This big box is REALLY in the way, but it will stay up another day or so to bake the rudder after the last fairing work. Getting excited to start on the rudder’s cassette steering assembly!

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Borrowed from the Missus

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It’s actually hard to find a remote-sensing thermometer that will read warmer than your average bad day in Death Valley. This one from Home Depot tops out at 158 degrees, which works for our 160 target. The ‘oven’ has a removable section of Sheetrock to reach the power switch and read the old fashioned meat-cooking thermo inside to make sure we don’t get a runaway thermal event past 175 degrees or so. This combination does the trick. We also had to hard-wire some temporary plugs, conduit and switches because regular power strips couldn’t take the heat or current draw. Also needed to find a replacement air circulation fan after smashing Colin’s nice little unit with a little slip – oops. The fan is a must with a box this big – think of how convection ovens have hit the home improvement market.
Too many trips to the hardware store and wasted time on various improvements, but this post-curing system is now a-ok. Beam #2 was cured on Sunday, and the other two will fire early this week.

Meanwhile, the net lashing anchors are going on the main hull, similar to how it was done on the beams. Step 1 was temporary strapping of the PVC to the boat – it makes a nice clean line all along the gunwale …

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We’ll laminate the fiberglass in sections, skipping the spots where the pipe straps sit. Once the primary bagging is done, we can hand-patch the little spots left in between. The straps are held with tiny 1/2″ screws, in just enough to bite. Those little holes will get putty filled before we proceed to seal everything up.

Sunday afternoon was spent preparing the 186′ of six-inch wide 18oz fglass fabric needed to create these lashing anchors. That’s 31′ along the hull x three layers x port/starboard, plus all the vac bagging materials. After ten minutes of scissor-burning wrist work, it was a run back home to grab Jeanne’s fabric cutting board and rotary cutting wheel. That helped a bunch, and it was returned in time for tomorrow’s prom dress sewing.

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Rudder fairing is good – first side finished today, and we attempt to get the exact match with side two starting tomorrow. Just keeping things fair, man!