T – minus three weeks!

Ok friends, start your countdown timers ’cause we’re setting the launch date for the June 11/12 weekend. Many self imposed deadlines have come and gone over the past four years, but today we can actually see the finish line. While y’all are grilling, drinking, riding, sailing, etc for Memorial Day weekend, we’ll be hitting this punch list hard.

20160518-224539.jpg That’s the list on the shop white board, and of course there’s another dozen or so items in the margins of the little orange notebook the builder carries around :) (eg fix the flat tire on the trailer holding the beams out in the driveway)

All deck hardware is just about buttoned up now. About an hour more of securing a few more bolts to go. Ventilation should be good inside, with three deck hatches, the two companionways, a dorade up front, two opening ports in the main cabin, two in the bow, and three in the aft cabin.

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The all-stainless steel purchasing for sailing hardware has Jeanne appreciating the “boat bling” look. All this stuff cost about like buying decent gold and diamonds, but hopefully the enjoyment per hour is well spent on the sea side of the equation.

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Last year we wrote about concerns of the captive-pin mast base, especially after seeing the same design as our mast’s step having cracked on the Contour34 tri. Recall the Keith at Skateaway set us up with a receiver cup at the bottom of the mast. Yesterday we finally tackled designing and building a replacement mast step. Farrier’s F39 plan isn’t quite right because he has the halyards on either side of the receiver ball, while we built our mast for them to exit just aft of the ball. So we used Farrier’s load solving but did some shape changing. Things were a bit tricky because the deck slopes about seven degrees off level and we want the ball to sit close to level with the water. Here’s the one we’re replacing. Missing in the photo is a high density plastic insert carved with a cylinder to accept the round steel pin from the mast. Note the old piece is stainless steel.

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So first on paper, then mocked up in wood. The plywood chunk at the left represents the deck slope.

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Next was sharp blades on the chop saw and table saw to cut shapes and make the 7 degree bevels needed. Ouch, $125 for about 2-1/2 sq feet of 1/2″ and 3/8″ 6061 aluminum.

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Took about three hours last night to cut and sand/grind everything in prep for the welder this evening.

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The welding shop was happy to get things properly prepped, with 1:1 scale drawing and a wood go-by mockup. We had left the proper 1/4″ fillet weld spaces at the seams – overall not bad for first time amateurs. Then the casually noted, yea we can do this in two hours; that’ll be $280, sir. After that it’s a stop at the anodizer, and this will be a $500+ part even though we designed it and cut it all out. Geez.

The bow area got its last big job, the forestay installation. Thanks again to Colligo for custom cutting this in titanium. Kind of a pity it’s hidden down in the hole. Keith will note the nice big ring nut to anchor the jib tack adjuster :)

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The bottom paint isn’t on yet because the thru hulls aren’t installed because one had to be special ordered from Forespar, etc (see how this works?), and we don’t want to mix up bottom paint until the daggerboard is also prepped. Last winter recall the America’s Cup foils building vet Cozmo pointed out the flaws in my dagger leading edge (“you know that sag will be slow, Carter” has been haunting for months ). He instructed on setting up a straight edge and re-fairing. Here goes: first see the problem gap.

20160518-232213.jpg next we filled that void.

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And got the leading edge of the board back to a straight line up and down.

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A quick phone call with the foil master tonight confirmed the next step is to make a careful wooden shaping jig cut from a proper foil leading edge shape (have that shape in the Farrier full size plans). He said we only need to worry about getting the right leading edge rounding, and a properly symmetric first three or so inches shape flowing back. So the jig can be short-legged, not pulled all the way down these very large daggerboard sides. A few more hours this week to go.

All the hardware backing plates are pretty woods inside – more photos next time- but anything outside is plastics. This 3/4″ high density stock from Tap machines very easily to make spacers under the rope clutches.

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This is the stuff we’re doing each evening now as the push to finish the list heats up. Very excited for Saturday when Jeanne and Leslie measure all the seating areas and map out the cushion foam we’ve been squirreling away for a couple years :). Curtains begin this week too. Yea!

Golden Gate Bridge

Last week we showed off the white and grey paint job. But it needs a little splash of color, too. The paint purchase included a quart of nice royal blue, but it looked like Tommy Lasorda’s big belly in a Dodgers warmup jacket. My mother and her father would be ashamed. So we tried three time mixing bits of red into the can of yellow paint on hand, but the pukey gold results were frustrating. Then with the last of the red paint can, we dropped in bits of yellow in search of orange. Suddenly the boat’s accent color jumped out – Golden Gate orange :)

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There are many ‘odds and ends’ smaller paint tasks being checked off. Here we’re sprucing up the wine cellar for Jimbo:

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And the boom is finished:

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We put together the bow sprit parts supplied by Keith at Skateaway Design. This is a slick system; it uses the pole only as a positioning device, not load bearing. All the forces are passed through to the bow, the bobstay and the whisker stays. The reacher roller furler hooks on to the stainless steel ‘J’, and the spinnaker tack enters the pole from the slot in the cone fitting, and exits the center of the end cap. (Note to self, the bobstay measure is 103″ pin to pin)

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This sprit does not retract upwards; it turns to the side by ‘unleashing’ one of the whisker stays. The bow end rotates on the white delrin roller:

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Question here for Keith…
Are you thinking that a halyard shackled to the outboard end is always the upward support means? Perhaps a phone call when you’re back home?

Windows and plumbing up next.

Like a ’55 Bel Air

Cream on top, pastel colors on the bottom… Looking good for cruising.

Little grommet neighbors have been hanging around the shop neighborhood lately so they got the fun of pulling tape

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Then it was time to stand back and breathe a sigh of relief:

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And this is where we think the waterline wraps around the tail end (stern end rests up above the water):

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It’s a nice ten-foot paint job, especially for a first time amateur. But since the cockpit needs to be a one-footer, we’re wet sanding today and carefully applying one more coat with newfound roll&tip skills. Cross those fingers! (Yes, all this is counter to news a few months back about having a pro spray guy come in, but that’s what money and logistics’ll get you).

We decided to paint all the metal (aluminum) strut/support parts for the floats, but wanted to anodize the bow sprit. Finally made it to that shop yesterday – nope, our 72″ pole is too long for the tank (yes Bill, by 4 inches!). It’s at least 100 miles to the next anodizer shop so that’s not happening. What do you think, just paint it like the other stuff, or go find the local powder coating place? I don’t know how powder coating stands up to the sea. Hmmmm

Getting the hang of it

Note to self (and other builders): it takes one quart of mixed two-part Interlux paint to cover one coat of everything exterior above the nets.

We thought the purchasing department might have gone a bit overboard on paint buying, but the last Off White quart was cracked open late today to start the rudder and radar / vane tower. With the hard top and hatchboards still to go, (plus a few cockpit area spots needing a third coat) hopefully we have just enough!

Prepping for, and rolling out, this hard candy shell style marine paint has been quite a learning curve, including trial and error of supplies. One has to go bold, even when running up the hill to Home Depot to buy more foam roller covers. Yea, get four of those 5-packs, we’re going to burn through them! Mostly science, but part art in getting the thinner amount right, how much pressure on the roller, etc. I’ve actually not been “tipping” off after the roller; getting good results with small rollers, going back over the work after about a minute and having the roller pop the first pass’ bubbles. Anyway, here are a few glamour shots at the end of a long work weekend.

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And for those of you who’ve been in the shop and seen these parts strewn about in their ugly/raw forms, happily note they’re shiny and about ready for prime time.

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And here on the port side anchor locker door you see the hawse-hole where the windlass mounts and drops the chain below the deck.

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Well, Bob it probably won’t be 72 degrees in the shop during the evenings this week, but if it’s in the 60s we’ll get cracking on the topsides (that today seem a helluvalot bigger than blank BurmaShave billboards to paint…

As good as Christmas presents

Like a kid tearing in to birthday or Christmas presents, all that blue masking tape ripped cleanly off today, and this was one project that went smoothly and was very satisfying.

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No more painting today, as NorCal was visited by a long spring shower.

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Lola and Coco enjoyed the wet walk, but it’s too damp and cold to paint. So we had an odd-jobs day, installing some cabinet hardware and cleaning up paint drips/runs, etc in the cabins. Hopefully we’ll be back in business tomorrow.

Sorry about the missing photo yesterday. Trying again here with that upside down boom…

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Slip sliding away

I told Keith on the phone today that the boat is finally almost done, and yet the list of things to do seems to be growing! Kind of stressful. “The nearer your destination, the more you’re slip sliding away…” (Thanks to Paul Simon for sticking that one in my head all evening)
Maybe we’ll spend time this weekend separating the punch list in to pre-transport vs post-launch tasks. We don’t really need the boat in the workshop to make the freezer lid or test out the self-steering windvane installation. Let’s get sailing and sort the niceties out during the summer.

Good news is that we won’t slip-slide on deck. Finished the whole topsides non-skid job tonight. Here’s how the past four evenings were consumed.

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After wet-sanding at 320 grit the entire deck and cockpit first coat from last week, we set out to mask the waterways (smooth parts) to delineate all the non-skid. No rulers or tape measures – just consistent distances from edges provided by sliding a couple of paint sticks around.
Then to round off all corners, Mrs.Carter came aboard (finally found a non-itchy / non-nasty job in the shop!) to cut 1/4 rounds using a 1.5″ circle.

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She would cut about 10 ‘moons’ on the cutting board then we lifted the edge and transferred them to the deck where needed. (Leaving no knife marks in the paint the way it’s often done). Must be a hundred or so of those little buggars done. There
were both inside and outside curves to do and this extra couple of hours made the job look much better.

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With the masking done it was time for another solvent wipe before rolling on the same Interlux Perfection “Off White” but this time with Awlgrip’s nonskid plastic beads mixed in. This is definitely something to practice off the boat; tricky to get the bead mix ratio and roller saturation right for an even distribution of grit on deck. We had this learning curve on the beams months ago. Once the paint and beads are mixed in your bucket, only pour small amounts at a time in the roller tray so you can frequently stir the bucket and refill the tray – keep those particles even suspended in the paint.
The Second coat went on late today and it all looks good, and I like the texture. It’s pretty aggressive, but that is intentional because there’s so much slope to these decks that we’re scared of loose footing.

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It should be fun for the Saturday morning unmasking, then we’ll finish painting all the gloss areas of the white portions of the entire hull. Might get to start the platinum grey below-the-nets topsides by Sunday afternoon.

(Did anybody notice the jib car tracks are running across the deck, not longitudinally? Thx to a wise old tri mariner)

While deck paint dries we’ve been working paint steps of all those loose parts. Here’s the boom after all it’s final sanding, getting a black “don’t look up in here” treatment to the open underside. (Recall months ago we’ll run the outhaul and reefing systems inside but with easy access, which Lenneman will totally approve :)

Just rewards

This one’s for Schildknecht

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THAT tasted good after seven hours of painting the deck and cabin top today!

Four and a half years of looking at raw fiberglass and carbon, parti-color fairing putty, various primers, sharpie pen marks and general grunge… And tonight it’s magically replaced by a decent looking boat. Phew!

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Of course there’s a ton more work to do. That’s the first coat, and we had a bit of trouble from cleaning the surface with mineral spirits, not the expensive Interlux 2333N thinner. The paint started orange-peeling so it took some fussing with re-rolling as it began to get tacky. That mistake was corrected by re-wiping the whole project again. And we had roller problems; as the paint got closer to its curing time or the roller cover was on more than a half hour, the solvents began to eat the foam roller. So we have little bits of crap to sand off in a day or two. I have some (supposedly) solvent and epoxy-proof rollers on the way. And we’ll try the ones Andy Miller text-reco’d this afternoon. (Y’all can search back on this site about 1.5yrs for Andy’s F22 Dart launch party). Dart is up in Washington now, but seeing her splash that first day has been motivating our work for a long time now. Yes Andy, almost…

Thank you to Mrs. Carter for spending her weekend keeping the Homefront gardens in lovely order. The boat builder seems paint obsessed, shirking yard work duties. Divide and Conquer, I suppose. Thanks honey!

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